TPS, MAF, Running rich.....Problems

[Nieko]

Motor: KA24E no mods to motor



Im going to list exactly what ive done with the motor it might be a long list but im leaving the story out to try and get to the point.

With my TPS at the right voltage(.45v) and my AAC valve plugged in my idle is almost 2000 if i unplug the AAC valve the idle goes to where it should be. But my car feels REALLY sluggish and it almost seems like someone strapped an anchor to my bumper, especially at WOT.

If i set the TPS at .12v and leave the AAC valve plugged in my idle will also be normal but again same problem, feels really sluggish and seems like it takes forever for the car to start accelerating.

now for the list of what has been done:

-Fixed TPS and MAF sensor wiring becaus previous owner had it all janky.

-Replaced injectors and o-rings because of running rich.

-Changed Engine coolante temp sensor

-Changed spark plugs and spark plug wires

-Changed o2 sensor (Bosch universal)

-Changed throttle body from old motor inlcuding IACV (noticed that this IACV had the spring and stuff in it and the old one did not, also the aac valve seems longer and skinner than the other one.)

-Adjusted throttle cable, throttle cable stopper screw, TPS, iacv

Ill see if i can get ahold of a video camera to show you guys exactly but im sure you understand.


No power, running rich thanks for everyones help in advance..

[WoolyS14DET]

What's the timming set at ??? Sounds like a possible timming issue that culd be a simple fix or one of the cams has jumped a tooth causing this condition.

Keep in mind that you cant set the base idle (correctly) if the timming is off.

Are you sure that you have your throttle adjusted properly??

Throttle closed tps voltage is .45

Base idle im sure you know is between 650 to 750 or around their.

*NOTE*= Bosh o2 sensor's are crap !!!

[Nieko]

timing is set at 15 degrees with TPS unplugged. and ya i have the tps set at .45 closed but if i plug the AAC in the idle shoots up.

if it jumped a tooth wouldnt my car be running really bad? when i set the timing, the light blinks pretty damn consistent. and should i maybe try another o2 sensor too? you think it could be part of my running rich problem?


ok pretend like you took the tps off of your car, you took the iacv off your car and the throttle cable and the throttle stopper screw.

Now put it all back together, what should you do first? hook it all back up plug everything back in. adjust TPS then unplug TPS and do timing. then plug TPS back in and adjust IACV?


thats one of the biggest problems tohugh, when i plug the IACV back in the idle shoots way up even with the idle screw all the way in... AHHH!!!! i hate this motor lol thanks for the suggestions. more help neccesary :)

[WoolyS14DET]

Have you checked for codes ??
If the timming has jumped a tooth it would still run but feel sluggish. I cant see the IACV issue having any effect on how the motor runs.(It only controls idle quality)
As far as the assembley of the throttle body goes..
you would adjust the throttle stop first then the TPS sensor and then timing and then adjust your base idle via the IACV.
Are you sure that the wiring is good and not messed up ? Are you sure that your air flow meter is good ??
Do you know how to set the timming ??? are you sure that you doing it correctly ?

[Nieko]

i have checked codes, i got o2 sensor and coolant temp sensor, replaced both, both codes went away.

my timing chain does rattle quite a bit on startup but then goes away.

and those are the steps i adjusted everything.

to set timing i unplug tps, shine the timing light, turn distributor to get it to 15 degrees plug tps back in. thats correct right? thanks for your help

[WoolyS14DET]

i have checked codes, i got o2 sensor and coolant temp sensor, replaced both, both codes went away.

my timing chain does rattle quite a bit on startup but then goes away.

and those are the steps i adjusted everything.

to set timing i unplug tps, shine the timing light, turn distributor to get it to 15 degrees plug tps back in. thats correct right? thanks for your help


I think the timming setting procudre is something like unplug and plug in 3 times and on the 4th time leave unplugged then it goes into timming adjust mode then set to 15deg and plug back in. Id have to double check the FSM.
It could be possible that the timming chain tensioner is weak on startup and caused one of the cams to "jump" a tooth ??

Put it on TDC compression stroke and see if the timming marks on the cam sprockets line up with the marks on the timming chains.

[Nieko]

thanks for the suggestions, i just got back from vegas so time to work on the car again lol... and my for sale thread got locked haha but anyway

BACK ON TOPIC:

when you unplug TPS which plug do you unplug? i was unplugging both but i think your only supposed to unplug one. do you unplug the plug that comes off of the tps? (like the wire off of the tps into a plug) or the one that goes into the side of the TPS?

and i was thinking that maybe it jumped a tooth because of the reason you stated also.. ill have to doulbe check timing tomorrow i guess. thanks for the help ill let you konw what happenes

[WoolyS14DET]

Just check that stuff I told you too and lemme know !!

[Nieko]

it all seems to be normal... i changed my distributor and rotor today and it seemed to get a little better, im going to change spark plugs tomorrow morninng and see if it helps. i changed them not too long ago but ive been running pretty rich off and on and theyre probably kinda fouled.

ill update tomorrow after i see whats happened. thanks

[WoolyS14DET]

Please don't tell me that after all that all you need is a tune-up !!

[Nieko]

well ive changed fluids and plugs and wires and other stuff just never the actual distributor and rotor and it seems "better" but still not quite right.

My response seems really laggy at lower rpms even under no load, like if i just kick the pedal it wont react for awhile, kind of hard to explain. what could be causing this.

OH! one more thing, i checked my tps voltage and it was at .45 like ppl told me. i noticed that when i plugged the TPS back in it would throw my timing off. so i upped the voltage to .51 and u hear a little tick, like something turns on almost, and my idle went up just a little(where it should be) and my timing was right. seems to be better like that. is that correct?

well im gunna change plugs again today. ill take a picture of how they look too. thanks

[Nieko]

plugs didnt look that bad... but i made the gap a little smaller i gapped them at .040 instead of .042. it seems to be running a little better but still not to great i think there is something wrong with the TPS wiring or something

[WoolyS14DET]

well ive changed fluids and plugs and wires and other stuff just never the actual distributor and rotor and it seems "better" but still not quite right.

My response seems really laggy at lower rpms even under no load, like if i just kick the pedal it wont react for awhile, kind of hard to explain. what could be causing this.

OH! one more thing, i checked my tps voltage and it was at .45 like ppl told me. i noticed that when i plugged the TPS back in it would throw my timing off. so i upped the voltage to .51 and u hear a little tick, like something turns on almost, and my idle went up just a little(where it should be) and my timing was right. seems to be better like that. is that correct?

well im gunna change plugs again today. ill take a picture of how they look too. thanks



First off the TPS should be set at .45volt in the closed position and that "tick" sound that you heard is the closed throttle position sensor. Put it back the way it was before.

[Nieko]

oh ok, but it seems like my response gets worse when its at .45.. any ideas?

[Nieko]

what should the timing be at after i plug the TPS in? because when i do timing and set it to 15, after i plug the TPS in when it is set at .45 the computer throws the timing off but when i have it at .51 it doesnt throw it off. so confused.... thanks for your help

[WoolyS14DET]

what should the timing be at after i plug the TPS in? because when i do timing and set it to 15, after i plug the TPS in when it is set at .45 the computer throws the timing off but when i have it at .51 it doesnt throw it off. so confused.... thanks for your help




Did you perform the timing setting procdure like I said ?
When in timing mode it should be set at 14 to 14 deg btdc.

[Nieko]

which plug do u unplug on the TPS? there is 2, one with sort of a pigtail and one that plugs straight into it. which one do you unplug for timing? or do you unplug both?

i unplugged both 3 times then on the 4th time i did the timing. i have a feeling thats not right, thanks, let me know

[WoolyS14DET]

which plug do u unplug on the TPS? there is 2, one with sort of a pigtail and one that plugs straight into it. which one do you unplug for timing? or do you unplug both?

i unplugged both 3 times then on the 4th time i did the timing. i have a feeling thats not right, thanks, let me know




It's the 3pin connector. you only unplug that one then adj timing

[Nieko]

sorry if this is getting irritating... but they are both 3 pins... im guessing your talking about the one that comes out of the side of the TPS pointing towards the intake pretty much.

sorry for the retarted questions i just dont want it to be something stupid like this that throws me off. thanks im gunna try it out later tonight.

and do you NEED the AAC valve plugged in? mine is unplugged right now because at .45 it jumps to 2000 RPMS.

frustrated.... thanks for your help

[WoolyS14DET]

Leave the AAC valve plugged in !! ITs the plug on the right side of the throttle body and should be the top. DO a search on adjusting the timming on an SR20DET and see what you come up with.

[Nieko]

i think my AAC valve is screwed up... because with it plugged in when i hit the gas my rpms will go up of course and then come back down but stay at like 1400... with idle adjust screw ALL THE WAY IN!

are you just telling me the sr20 for reference? you know i have a KA24e right?

[WoolyS14DET]

i think my AAC valve is screwed up... because with it plugged in when i hit the gas my rpms will go up of course and then come back down but stay at like 1400... with idle adjust screw ALL THE WAY IN!

are you just telling me the sr20 for reference? you know i have a KA24e right?



I thought you had a SR !!! And you said no codes right ??
Yeah it sounds like the AAC could be effed up ?? Ill get the timming procudre for the KA for you and see what I can do !!!

[Nieko]

hahaha thank you!

[Nieko]

any news on the timing precedure? so far what i did was pretty much warm up the car, unplug TPS do timing plug tps and good to go?

[WoolyS14DET]

any news on the timing precedure? so far what i did was pretty much warm up the car, unplug TPS do timing plug tps and good to go?



Did anything change ?? How does it run now ?

[Nieko]

well i went to the track today and i had a blast but the motor wasnt like it should be but i still managed lol. it feels like it takes FOREVER to go through the RPMS especially starting off down low. its horrible. im gunna keep trying to fix this... any suggestions?

[WoolyS14DET]

Are you going to the BBQ ?

[Nieko]

ya, i am haha shall i bring the tools?

[WoolyS14DET]

ya, i am haha shall i bring the tools?


Ya Ill have some with me as well !! (My bag-O-goodies) !!!

[Nieko]

cool...thanks a lot for all your help

[Nieko]

hahaha soooo.... u pulled up while we were walking to jack in the box, then i came back and left with teddys mom to show her where costco was and i came back and u were leaving hahahah oh well.

I got new symptoms! lol

When my car warms up it likes to do it at about 450, if i tap the gas RPMS will go up and then drop to almost killing the car.

after it is warmed up it idles around 750 but it seems like it kind of sputters a lot and bobs to about 600 which isnt horrible.

I can smell the gas when i get out of my car.

gosh i hate this... any new suggestions?

[Nieko]

i got a new engine code probably 3 days ago and i just checked it.

Code 32: E.G.R. Function


could this be causing my problem?

[WoolyS14DET]

an egr code wont cause a problem with a way it runs it's smog crap !! I wish I could have looked at it

[Nieko]

but could the e.g.r. cause it to run rich maybe? w4oeisjfnw;sdlhfn fuck i dont even know what im talking about anymore, im gunna go to the junkyard tomorrow and see if i can find a SOHC wiring harness, perfect and uncut, and start from there. this shits annoying as hell now.

It will seem like its running better and ill drive for awhile and stop.

get back in my car and then start it again and it will be all stupid retarted again.

ill see if maybe i can make a video, anything in specific ud like to see?

[WoolyS14DET]

Something that shows the exact problem that you are having